Survey
When your residence is examined, (existing, restoration, new construction, add on's), many things should be looked at for proper installation, your comfort level & satisfaction.
The BTU's required to "heat & cool" your home during during those cold & hot temperatures (load calculation) vs the unit output capacity in BTU's. That balance of load calculation & unit's capacity should be met.
The operation cost for heating and air conditioning, the installation of the entire system, the contractor you choose, and very important is your input as to what you expect from the system, and what you want it to do. If replacing one did you have any problems from the old unit, and many things that need to be taken into account.
The following information is to help you get the best and satisfy your comfort needs. That is what you are really buying is comfort. The nuts & bolts are left up to the contractor you choose, Warranties, Guarantees, Maintenance and let's not leave out the contractors cleanliness to perform the installation. You should not have a mess to clean up.
There is a lot of information here for the home owner and you can imagine what the "Professional" person should know to do a good survey & estimate.
The more knowledgeable and the more professional the airconditioning & heating representative the more accurate is your estimate and the better your job.
Click on item or read by paging down
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Scheduling of appointment.
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The 1st step is the scheduling for the survey. When the customer calls the office they can immediately schedule the appointment with someone in the office. This way the customer doesn't need to call again or you need to call back just to schedule. Question's the customer may have are better answered site seen. One of the more common request is a price over the telephone.
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One can't quote an accurate price site unseen. The quote depends on a lot of things such as the material needed, labor used, equipment selected, & so on. Through my 40+ years there were those that wanted a price over the phone. Homeowners like to shop around for the lowest price but that's how they may get burned but on the other hand what does the customer see? I am afraid that there are salespeople, contractors, & dealers that are not very professional. They don't approach the task if it were their own home.
If one listens to a knowledgeable contractor then their questions should be satisfactorily answered & their selection could be a lot easier. Don't quote without looking but a dealer may want to qualify their customer.
The appointment & start of the survey. 
The survey starts with a discussion with the customer, (usually at the kitchen or dining room table).
What do they want from the new system, cooling, heating, dryness, humidifier, and any other questions you or the customer may think of.
I had a scientist that wanted to keep his books & important papers dry & preserved. Humidity levels can be important. Good frank discussion is very important.
a. Does the customer have any ideas of their own ?
b. Maybe location of the unit ?
c. A split or package ?
d. Heating type gas, heat pump, electric, & what do they have now ?
e. Operation cost for heating and air conditioning ? (your utility bill)
f. Is there any areas of concern with the old system & if so what are they ?
g. Uncomfortable in any rooms, was there an added addition & if so what, was the old system ever worked on or modified & if so why & what was done ?
Have a good discussion with the customer so you can see what you may need to do.
The survey was done in two separate appointments. The 1st appointment did the conversation with the customer, load measurements, equipment location, but drawing info & measurements were taken for the 2nd appointment. It consisted of the drawing or layout of what was proposed, equipment location, water drain piping, refrigerant piping, vents, vibration pads under the outside unit, duct / grille locations, actually the complete job and of course the contract. Each appointment took approximately 1 1/2 to 2 hours. That was a very professional approach. An estimate that is done in 15 - 20 minutes leaves a lot to be desired and can result in your discomfort and troubles when the installation is done. Get a good and thorough survey and written estimate. Faster does not mean better. Have the survey done right and have them put in the proposal what is going to be furnished and done. (See the sample of a proposal / contract. Goto Top of Page and select "Sample Contract" )
"One appointment may be done but a lot of items in the installation need to be covered for the home owner. The main professional thing is to cover the complete installation." ( see a sample contract below or shown as a selection at the beginning menu. Select Top of Page below for this Menu)
The survey
What size of air conditioning & heating BTU's is needed for the home. Was a "Load BTU Sizing Calculation" done on the home ? If calculated was it a Manual "J" or in accordance with Manual "J", (see Load Calculation), or was it a rule of thumb, (500 sq ft per ton, so many cfm per outlet, replace with the same size unit, etc)?
How was the home/building BTU capacity determined for air conditioning & heating?
" First see what size of shoe fits". Have a BTU load calculation done for heating & cooling.
How about an addition? Was it calculated as well? It's a must. Usually ac / heat units are sized only for the existing conditioned area not for any potential add on's. Therefore the new addition will probably render the existing unit and existing ducts too small.
Those units that may be oversized for a new addition may have a moisture problem until the new addition is done and that's provided the addition is done.
The Heating &/or cooling BTU's also tells you the physical size of equipment used.
Then where & how it can be installed. What materials are necessary for this required installation. If the indoor furnace/airhandler is to go into a closet will the existing door be wide enough or will the door jamb need to be removed. How about the header. If the equipment is to go into the attic area is there access for it. How about local codes that may govern the installation.
Below is a sample floor plan that could be made of your home either of this type of drawing or by graph paper.
Some building departments may require it. Check with your local permit department & always obtain a permit where required. That's for your safety & the installation in it's entirety will be inspected by the building inspector.
Duct & grille sizes are not shown but will be displayed on a submittal to the home owner &/or building dept.
All penetrations made thru the ceiling, ( grilles, ducts, piping, etc ), should take into account where truss and piping may be located. These could affect not only the location but if it can be installed at that location. The air conditioning & Heating contractor should look in the attic and determine as best they can these penetrations.
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The outside condenser location shown here sets on a unit support. That support should have vibration pads between the unit and the support. This is not only used for vibration but air circulation underneath as well. Some codes require that the unit to be fastened to the support. Check local codes. This particular unit is a "split system" & has refrigerant lines connecting the outside with the inside.Each unit will require electrical wiring for hi-voltage 110-220 volt & the t'stat wiring of 24 volt. There will also be a disconnect electrical box close to the unit, inside & outside.
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The indoor unit also location shown above may be a furnace with an air conditioning coil or an air handler. First make sure the indoor unit will fit in the space and be able to be serviced & components replaced. I have seen some that fit into the space but to replace a fan motor the whole unit had to be removed then reinstalled. The electrical disconnect box should not be in the way of this requirement or for that matter any of the electrical wiring or water condensate drain.
The door jamb needs to be removed or it's OK for the unit's size. The door jamb is that area around your door that fits into your wall. That header, (above your door area), may or may not make difficult if not impossible to connect the duct going to the attic. The attic's truss can run across this area and make it even more difficult to run the duct into the attic. Sometimes the workman must get innovated to make the fitting & sometimes it's pretty good but other times it is not so good. The size, shape, and free area of that duct can determine the volume of air it carries and that relates to your comfort or the lack of it.
Some times the physical dimensions of the equipment to fit into a given area is over looked. Especially refrigerant lines, (2 copper lines), condensate drain line, and electrical lines & the disconnect box. These items can hinder or prohibit service, maintenance when they are overlooked. Check & make sure the equipment will fit in the prospective area and can be serviced, (parts or components can be replaced). When door jambs, mold, and those things dealing with carpentry need to be removed they may incur an added cost. Usually a good carpenter may be needed for this type of work.
The duct which attaches to the top portion of the furnace or airhandler must have space for it & the workman to properly install it. When this duct rises to the attic will there be enough space in the attic for it as well as any workman. The attic truss, (see truss below), does it sit or go over where one wants to rise to the attic area?
The return air can be a big part of the installation. It needs the correct size of grille/s and the correct size of support ( plenum) it may sit on to get air back to the unit & to be as quiet as possible. Too many times air is drawn through the wall cavities or floor joist and unfortunately that air could not be clean and possibly very restrictive to get the correct amount of air. It can draw the attic air which is dirty & not conditioned. Make sure that area is sealed. One of the signs is dirty evaporator coil &/or dirt inside ducts.
Sufficient space is vital for return air. More often than not return air areas are dimensioned for heating & air conditioning takes more air.
If the inside unit is a furnace then a vent will be required and that is generally thru the roof. It's size depends on the furnace size. Usually they are around 4"-5" in diameter.
There will be refrigerant gas (copper) lines & drain lines to be run & installed. See if they may need to be covered?
These items are some reasons for the survey & should be examined.
This is one reason of a "contract" spelling out the work & equipment to be used, see my sample contract below.
Is the furnace capable of handling air conditioning to be added on now or at a later date. Furnaces are selected not only for there ability to heat but are also sized to accommodate the addition of an air conditioning coil & fan motor. Air conditioning always requires more air, (cfm), than heating.
Where will the condensate (drain) lines, refrigerant (copper) lines, and air carrying ducts be located. (see Ducts & Grilles for types of air carrying ducts). Will they need to be insulated and covered or do they stay exposed, are these lines sized correctly according to manufactures recommendation. Is a condensate pump needed for the condensate line. Are there any pitfalls to using the condensate pump? How about when the pump doesn't function where will the water over flow go?
The existing duct may or may not be able to be used depending on it's size, location, & what is needed.
Electrical wiring to the units where does it run? The electrical disconnect box (a way for the unit to be disconnected from any electricity) does it need to be figured, will it fit in it's location and not hinder any service that may be needed such as any panels that need to be removed, fan motors that need to be pulled or replaced, air conditioning coils that need to be cleaned or replaced?
How about return air? If there are two floors involved should there also be several units or just one. How about the size & location of the return air? Return air is important. Remember the indoor fans function is to pump air and it will return as much as it blows. A good tech can tell by the fan amps if it is loaded or free wheeling. A good maintenance check may find dirt on the blower wheel which can affect it's performance.
An air conditioner & heater must have proper supply and return air circulation. That is how air conditioning & heating is delivered to your rooms. When air is delivered to a room and return air doesn't get back to the unit then unsatisfactory results will probably happen. For Air Conditioning the air is returned to the unit & the heat is removed (via the ac coil) then blown into a room. For heat the colder air is returned to the unit then heated (via the coil, heat exchanger) & supplied to rooms via the duct and grille. Both air supply and air return are very important. One without the other will have unsatisfactory results
In the survey the entire area should be examined for how the system is to be installed & what it will take for a good installation. The residence & system should be examined by someone that knows what they are doing and look at all aspects of the installation.
The following shown or listed items should be checked for their capability of the new system and are for the intent of helping the customer.
Equipment or unit selection.
The equipment is selected because of many reasons. The capacity or size (BTU's) needed, How long it last, required repairs & maintenance it may need, it's annual cost to operate (when is your pay back), it's efficiency rating by SEER, EER, C.O.P., or Annual Fuel Efficiency Ratings for gas & oil furnaces , & it's initial installed cost.
Unit sizing has an affect on cost. The smaller unit will cost less to install & operate but your comfort maybe sacrificed. Especially at colder or hotter temperatures.
Is the new system a package or split system? Spec sheets and brochures should give you a good idea of what is proposed and what the particular equipment will do. A sample of a "Specification Sheet" is shown in the "Heat Pump" selection but spec sheet info is on all types of equipment not just the "Heat Pump"
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Furnace for heating only usually natural or propane gas or oil.
will require piping and related valves maybe a tank.
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AC coil on furnace for air conditioning & can also be a heat pump for heating.
Connects to an outside condenser.
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Condenser (outside unit) connects to AC coil or air handler
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Airhandler,
(inside), for air conditioning & for heating it can be a heat pump or electric heat for heating. Connects to outside condenser
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Package unit for for air conditioning & for heating it can be a heat pump, electric heat, or a Gas-Pak, (natural or propane gas),for heating .
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Electric Heat in ducts, air handler, or package unit
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The type of unit and the fuel that is used will depend on your type of installation, local weather data, (very cold climates), and local rates for the fuel. That information should be supplied to you by the AC & Heat contractor along with their recommendations & why those recommendations are suggested.
"Read about each component shown above."
The ac coil shown above also has one located in the air handler. It's primary purpose is to absorb heat, (like a radiator).
The home's air across this coil via the return air, ( recommended is 4 to 6 times per hour for the entire cubic volume of air in the home), is displaced by the fins so that a correct amount of heat can be extracted from the air via the copper tubes that circulate the refrigerant gas. That's one reason that the slower the air the more moisture can be removed (depending on the fan blower setting) but the more air the less moisture is removed.
The coils be it inside or outside are really heat exchangers. The correct amount of air across the coil will give it the ability to remove or add BTU's depending on it's mode of operation. Those coils are just "radiators" but their function is to complete a job (transfer heat via the air amount).
The amount of BTU's delivered into the home will also relate to this fans air volume (cfm) and could have an affect on the operation of the unit, your comfort, but also your utility bill. Those fins on the ac coil and condenser coil displace the volume of air across their surface (coils). If they are bent or inhibit the air flow then one is not getting the volume of air that may be needed for them to do their job. As a customer you may experience discomfort & higher utility bills or even malfunction with the unit.
1 BTU is equivalent to 1 match
When air crosses this coil & heat is removed, (for airconditioning), then a dew point, (rain), is reached & the drain pan & drain are vital to it's condensate water removal to the outside.
When the volume of air is to low it could result in the coil freezing. dirty filters, the wrong type of filter, duct sizing, anything to prohibit the volume of air needed could be the culprit. There are other reasons to a coil freezing but we are not trying to be a service tech reference. Just giving an idea as to what happens to an air conditioning's evaporator coil.
The outside units condenser coil removes that heat with it's discharge air into the atmosphere. The air is drawn over the coil & heat is then removed. Displacement of air is by those fins that's why it is important to keep the coil clean & the fins NOT bent or damaged.
The transfer of heat is by the copper lines which circulate a freon gas (refrigerant). This freon absorbs the heat in the home then discharges it via the outside condenser unit coil. Confusing, I hope not but I am trying to give you an idea what goes on with the evaporator coil. There are a lot of other components but lets leave them to a service tech.
The ac coil or air handler connected to the condenser is also called a "Split System". The condenser is the outside unit and the ac coil or air handler is the indoor unit. They are connected by refrigerant (copper) lines.
A good professional service technician can tell by taking temps, pressures, & other facts if the coil & for that matter the unit is doing it's job.
The furnace usually installs inside & is for heating only. It can be installed vertical or horizontal in a designated closet, utility room, even in attic areas but fire precaution has to be taken, (see local codes).
Sometimes the "return air platform", (the base the unit may set on), is not sufficient for air conditioning. Less air is needed for heating.
It has a BTU input to the heating furnace & heating output to the home, meaning the BTU's to the furnace in gas, (therms or cu.ft) then a percent (efficiency rating) output is from the furnace to your home in BTU's. These furnace's are usually oil or gas fired. Furnaces require a flue usually through the roof and an outside air intake which is required by code for what goes up the vent or flue or combustion air (check with your local code enforcement). Venting (exhaust) system carries the hot toxic exhaust gases to the outside. The movement of exhaust gas and air creates a low pressure region which draws new air into the combustion chamber. This upward movement through the venting is called "draft". Since the amount of draft determines the amount of air entering the combustion chamber, the draft must be balanced with the system's need for incoming air to support adequate combustion. If the draft is too great too much excess air will be drawn into the combustion chamber, heated, and passed up the chimney, vent, or flue. If the draft is too small, not enough air will be drawn into the combustion chamber to support combustion creating the yellow flame, soot, and carbon monoxide. The draft through the vent (to the outside) tends to increase and decrease with atmospheric pressure and wind. To correct for these changes which could result in an imbalance of the fuel/air ratio or sudden powerful down drafts, a draft diverter hood (or simply draft hood) is installed. This allows for the maintenance of a small draft through the combustion chamber and extinguishing the pilot let. When the draft fluctuates, more or less room air is taken in through the draft hood so that the draft in the vent system below the hood remains relative constant.
There efficiency is AFUE - 80% - 90% whatever the efficiency rating may be. Basically that efficiency is the amount delivered to your home vs the amount of BTU's extracted up the flue. So 80% AFUE is 80% of BTU capacity to the home & 20% BTU's lost up the flue (vent). The higher rating means the more BTU's to your home the more efficient it is & the lower your fuel usage or bill will be. Natural gas is piped in from the city or a source but liquid propane gas requires a tank . Both are safe if done correctly. Once a year "maintenance" is highly recommend.
An AFUE (annual fuel utilization efficiency) rating is assigned to every furnace using a very complicated formula that takes into account many factors, such as fuel use, electricity use, and the fans used in the furnace. Usually, the manufacturer assigns the AFUE rating and then the AGA (American Gas Association) inspects the furnace and applies the formula to ensure that it lives up to its assigned rating.
If you want to have air-conditioning with the furnace then the AC coil is added, (fits), on the top of the furnace and the condenser sets outside on a concrete slab or support of some kind. Size, (BTU & physical), of the furnace will be important when air conditioning is added. Air volume the furnace fan motor can deliver is VERY IMPORTANT. It takes more air volume to air condition than heat so the fan motor, cabinet, and other items come into play. You may end up with a larger furnace than you need because of the air conditioning.
Size the furnace correctly and according to any air conditioning that may be added. The manufacturer of the furnace furnishes to the dealer information regarding this and generally is in the form of specification data. You as a customer can see this information as well.
The indoor ac is connected to the outdoor unit via 2 copper lines. Size for the copper refrigerant lines are important and should not be overlooked, These units are also know as a split system.
Air conditioning efficiency is rated as SEER. Again the higher the SEER the more efficient & the lower your utility, (consumption), bill. SEER is BTU's per watt of electricity to run the unit. SEER stands for seasonal energy efficiency ratio. Before SEER there was EER, (energy efficiency ratio), and was the rating for 1 hour. SEER is for a season. There is approximately .5 to 1 difference between the two. If the SEER is 13.0 then the EER might be 12.5. The air conditioning equipment is tested for what rating it may be and is in the "ARI" book. If it's not in the ARI book then it was not tested and rated by this well known and accepted laboratory.
The home minium SEER is 12 but that may go higher. Check with your local building department or air conditioning contractor for their SEER minium.
The Air handler is connected to the condenser via refrigerant copper lines & is also called a split system. This equipment combination can be air conditioning only, air conditioning with electric heating, or it can be air conditioning, (removable of heat for air conditioning), and heating, (the adding of heat for heating), to be a heat pump. The air handler is the indoor unit & can be installed horizontally in an attic, horizontally usually requires a drain pan under the air handler with a unit cut off switch if the water overflows into this auxiliary drain pan, it can be installed vertically in a closet, utility room and will always require some type of stand or support. The condenser will always set outside on it's support. Both will be connected by the refrigerant lines.
The package unit , (also known as a "Self contained unit"), sets outside on the ground or roof and sometimes up high on the home at the "Gable end" but outside, & is the only unit, (NO split). It can be a Gas-Pak,(cooling & gas heating), cooling only, cooling with electric heating, and a heat pump with or without electric back up heating.
It to will have efficiency ratings for the heating and air conditioning.
The package unit has the indoor & outdoor unit built as one unit. They are just as good as the split unit but installation practices on both must be adhered to.
The Condenser, will always be located outside and will be connect by refrigerant lines to the indoor evaporator coil.
During the airconditioning season this unit will give off heat via the air across it's coil but if it is a "Heat Pump" then the coil will absorb heat for the indoor use. More is shown on the "Heat Pump" section of the Menu. That is 1 of the reasons of a Manual J BTU load calculation and a heat pump balance chart.
Electrical heating is always in the form of wire resistance heat. Whether it's ceiling heat, electric furnace, in the air handler, or duct heating. It's rating is always a 1 to 1 ratio which means for every penny you put in you get a penny's worth of heat. Electric heat is the most costly form of fuel you can find but the cleanest. Cold climates don't use electric heat but be assured that an air conditioning unit with electric heating is cheaper to purchase & install than other forms of heating & air conditioning. Sometimes electric heat is used with "Heat Pumps" as back up heat also known as emergency or auxiliary heat & usually sized at 80% of the heating load. Divide the total heat load BTU's by 3413. That will give you the KW size of the heat strip.
The advantage of one over the other depends on the home, location, customer, & the dealer. The dealer can tell you what the total cost of everything to be furnished & installed. Also what your annual projected fuel cost for each system should be.
Cost of operation is a very big factor. When you look at high SEER's & Hi-Efficiency Furnaces, (AFUE rating), you need to know the energy consumption, cost of operation, return on investment, and pay back estimates. The higher efficiency rating on equipment the more cost you initially have but your fuel consumption or usage is less. Equipment is rated & certified by ARI,(Air Conditioning Refrigeration Institute). Below is information that ARI will give and a dealer should provide to their customer, (home owner).
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Ask your dealer to show you the units rating
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Notice the rated ARI capacity, SEER, COP, etc is for units that are "matched" (Condenser & Airhandler matched together have been tested in engineering facilities). Rheem has been selected to show examples but all equipment will be available.
To download the ARI Directory for your computer click here.
You need cost of operation to select heating & cooling equipment and what is the most economical or the best return on investment. Ask the dealer to figure the annual cost of operating your equipment for heating and cooling based on Bin Weather Data. (See forms & operation cost on page "Questions-Answers-Tips" of this Web site.)
Methods for cost of operation are: Degree day calculation, Equations which are based on heating or cooling load hour data and equipment efficiency (HSPF, SEER, AFUE) descriptors, Bin method (my favorite) an hour by hour calculation. The Bin Method is one of the more accurate ways of determining your annual cost of operation for heating & cooling.
The AC & Heating dealer should be able to supply this information & if they can't then I would look for someone who can.
Operating cost, energy consumption, rate of return, and pay back are very important in the survey and should be furnished by the AC dealer. The higher the efficiency the more cost for the equipment but the lower your fuel consumption and you may get it back in the pay back. Your area's BIN Method will tell you if it's worthwhile for the higher air conditioning SEER and heating efficiency.
The most economical fuels for heating are & in order: (1). Heat pump, (2). Natural Gas, (3). Propane Gas, (4). Oil, & in last place is (5). Electrical heat, (aka wire resistance heat).
Is the heating system a heat pump, gas, electrical heat, or oil ? What are the seasonal operating cost of these types of heating. Is a hotter input air associated with these forms of heat that might affect your comfort?
The BTU size will help determine not only the BTU capacity needed but the physical dimensions and access. Are local required codes met. Remember codes are a minimum requirement not the maximum and are for the safety and benefit of the customer as well as the dealer. The A/C dealer should examine all conditions to make sure the equipment and it's related components will be sized & installed correctly.
Will the existing equipment supports, (slabs, threaded / iron, inside unit stands or supports), be OK for the new system or does it need new supports or modify the existing ? If any equipment is to be on the roof how about the potential for leaks? What precautions are taken to eliminate roof leaks.
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Roof install
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Outside condenser set on a slab set on ground
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The inside furnace or airhandler sometimes requires a platform, support, some type of support for the unit to set on, hang by, etc. There are times the support space is used for return air but it is not sufficient for airconditioning. Airconditionng takes a higher volume of air than heating. Also sometimes the air is passed through the wall (studs or 2x4's) and if not sealed properly will suck dirty air into the system. That dirty air should not be there & can affect the system performance.
Are special items needed because of codes, (fire dampers when a unit is located in a garage).
Will the refrigerant lines be big enough. Do refrigerant lines need to be replaced? Where will they be located?
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Residential copper can range from 3/8" to 1 1/8", depending on tonnage & length, & always has 2 copper lines. One they call liquid,(the small one), & one they call suction, (the larger line). Generally roll copper is used so sweat fittings & connections are limited & hopefully where a service person can get to it for repair or replacement. That is also why you try to run them exposed with a line cover to hide them. The larger line is always insulated with pipe insulation. Why the insulation? So it won't sweat and pick up more heat that it should (superheat).
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line cover
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line cover
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Is there any type of cover for exposed lines?
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This line cover is used for those lines down an outside wall. When lines or ducts may need to be located and exposed on the floor of closets then a plywood "shoe rack" may be used.
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Even on the floor of some closets where lines or ducts would be shown a plywood cover, (shoe rack), can be provided or up high like a ceiling or beams are exposed a soffit can be used.
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Is the attic truss and spacing ample for the new duct sizing as well as space for the workman?
Sometimes a home owner wants to install by the exterior wall but that is the lowest part of the attic. Be careful of that.
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Make sure there is ample room for the ducts & the workman?
When an inside unit location has been selected and the duct is to rise to the attic does it encounter a truss and needs to be offset or is a new location chosen? Try not to inhibit the air flow as it relates to the performance of the unit. Including your operation cost to heat & cool your home.
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Have the correct procedures been used to size the duct, are the connections correct, have the turns & fittings, (this affects effective length), been taken into consideration ? Remember these things can affect the amount of air being delivered to each area. So it's very important to have the correct flow & volume of air. I might add this can adversely affect your operation cost.
Is the existing insulation on the ducts the correct R value and thickness? Are there any openings in the duct insulation that could cause duct sweating and loss of capacity? (Duct insulation can be exterior wrap or interior lining. The thickness is normally 1" to 2" & R-4 to R-8). It is important that the R value is maintained. By pulling the wrap insulation too tight it will lose it's R value, (loss of the insulation value).
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Wrap for metal (outside)
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Lining for metal (inside)
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Fiberglass Duct Board
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A thermostat controls when the unit comes on or goes off.
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It monitors the temperature only where it is located.
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Usually it is located by a main return air grille so it will sense the temperature of the returning air and do it's job.
Thermostats come in many types, round, square, rectangle, &
Programmable. Some not shown here but you get the idea.
What type are you getting?
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There is lo-volt, (24 volt), and hi-volt, (110 - 230 volt), wiring to the units and thermostat. Is this OK for the new unit or is the new wiring included? Any breakers, disconnects, and fuses need to be installed?
Main electrical
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The total amount of electricity supplied to the home. Is there enough electricity to run the electrical appliances, air conditioner, and all electrical items. Is the electrical amount and wiring according to local code or will it need to be brought up to code?
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Is the main electrical service OK or will it need to be increased or
brought up to code ?
Will an electrician be needed ? Is electrical cost in my estimate ?
Electrical service is provided by the utility company to your weather head, (usually 3 wires), thru to the meter then to the fuse box or main panel. This should be checked to see if electrical service is large enough for any item to be added & ran from this service.
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This includes wires to the weather head, wires thru the weather head, the meter, and the main panel. If it is not large enough or not up to code then an electrician may be needed and that cost as well.
The equipment inside and/or outside has a voltage line 220 volt or 110 volt which is known as a high voltage wire that is going to it. That requires a means of disconnecting the voltage by the unit so the service person can work on it as well as other considerations. Usually a disconnect "box" located by the unit is used whether it is fused or not fused. (The local code should dictate what goes in.). Sometimes a fused disconnect is installed on the roof & the customer cannot get to that at least very easy. If that is the case then a weather proof non fused disconnect can be used as well.
Equipment is fused at the main panel according to codes. Wiring size depends on the unit requirement, the electrician, the installing dealer & of course the local code with it's requirement but copper wire is strongly suggested in lieu of aluminum.
The Air Conditioning or electrical contractor should be able to tell you where the lines & disconnect boxes are to be installed & if some sort of a cover is needed to conceal them.
While the dealer looks into the attic he should check the attic insulation.
Does more insulation need to be added or is what's there OK? What type, R value, & in inches what is there now? (Some typical attics have R-30 for insulation which can be blown or blanket insulation. The R value will depend on the area.) Uninsulated attic can have as much as 21 BTU's per square foot. A BTU is approximately 1 match. With insulation it can be down to 1.5 BTU's per square foot. So it is very important to have enough insulation.
Your local AC contractor or the insulation contractor should be able to give you valuable information.
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Too much insulation may not be
cost effective. Your dealer should
be able to provide this information
to you,
If blown is added on top of the
existing it may pack it down & not
have the full R value.
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For "R" value per inch thickness go to this site click here.
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Make sure a permit is obtained with the local building department (codes are a minimum & for the customers safety).
Don't give more that 25% of the quoted amount upfront (usually it's 10%) the balance when the building inspector OK's the job.
Always get 3 referred customers from a contractor so you can call them to ask how's their installation. Would they make the same decision ?
Below is a sample contract . The quoted price depends on what is or is not furnished, the type of unit, (SEER), material, labor, how much the contractor wants to make and that's not as much as the outsider thinks. Normally 20% to 40% of the sales price goes to the overhead & profit.
As much as possible should be showed from equipment to building permits. Put in writing WHAT YOU ARE GETTING. When one cuts corners to get lower prices then they get into trouble.
Want to download a sample contract.
Right click on this, select & left click "Save as target", then save to the directory of your choice:
After you have saved it, it is in PDF format and will require Adobe Reader to view and print it. A lot already have Adobe on their PC. If not the program is free. Send me an E-Mail & I will send you the link.
The below contract is designed to show what is being furnished and aids in protecting the customer and dealer.
Always have a "Load Calculation" ( Total BTU's Cooling / Total BTU's Heating ) and that should be on the contract/proposal given you by the contractor.
This contract can be changed to accommodate the dealers & customers needs. This was created in "WordPerfect" & can be printed by a printer company in carbon paper for not very much of a cost.
The quote or price given to the customer is comprised of equipment, material used , the labor or manpower used to do the necessary work, permit, taxes, overhead and profit.
The cost of doing business, (overhead), generally is from 15% to 25%, & what one tries to make on the job, (profit), is generally 10% to 20%).
Example:
Two methods used and the markup is different.
For a sales price divide cost by:
Cost of job is $800 divided by .60 = $1330.00 Sales price (40% markup of sales price).
For a sales price multiply cost by:
Cost of job is $800 x 40% of cost = $320 overhead & profit added to cost of $800 = $1120.00 Sales price (40% of cost).
Notice one example has a selling price of $1330.00.
The other sales price is $1120.00.
The difference could very well say whether the contractor will be around next year.
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Prices may vary according to material or items used or not used, labor or man hours needed to do a job, the quality or lack of quality of the job, the overhead & profit, permits, and sales tax .
There are other ways of figuring sales price and should always be determined by the dealer and his/her C.P.A or accountant.
Conservation, (see also Residential Conservation on the Menu Selection).should also be checked during the survey. Conservation in the home is the infiltration or leakage your home may have. Here are some of the areas that can affect your unit size & your utility bill or cost: "Window leakage", electrical receptacles or 110 volt plugs, the insulation in the walls, the insulation in the attic, venting of attic, leakage around doors, & leakage of outside air &/or heat into or out of the home. One should improve those areas where it is "Cost effective". Doing the cost effective improvements you will have a reasonable pay back in the cost & size of equipment and your utility "bill". Usually the AC dealer will know how to check these areas and provide the pay backs to you. Some utility companies also do this checking. Please have your "Conservation" checked.
A lot goes into the design of the correct system & the AC contractor should be able to give you this information. So choose wisely & not by initial price only. Most would throw out the highest & the lowest then take the one in the middle. Their price is fair.
Remember you are not buying a loaf of bread so educate you choice & choose the dealer you have faith in.
Most cases somebody needs to see the existing conditions to correctly render a judgment. Some of the "Newsgroups" try to help but it is always better to see the existing conditions & what you may be talking about or want to accomplish.
The referred to efficiency or SEER, Operation/utility cost, Heat Pumps, and more is further shown & discussed on other pages of this web site. If you don't find what you are looking for then send your request to me
Good luck in your selection.
