Conservation for Residential

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 height="100%"><tr> <td valign="top" width=159 style="border-right: 1px solid #DDDDDD;" BGCOLOR="#000000" TEXT="#F7F7FF" background="48e80803.jpg"> <div> <B> <STYLE>  </STYLE>  </B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#attic__above_ceiling__" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Attic</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#wall_insulation" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Walls</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#FFFFCC" FACE="Arial" ><B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></FONT><B> </B><A HREF="id34_m.htm#windows_" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Windows</B></A></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#floors" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Floors</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#doors" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B> Doors</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#electric_wall_outlets" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Electric Outlets</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#a_method_for_checking_leaks_or" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B> Check leaks</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#venting_the_attic" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Vents</B></A></FONT></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3ad17170.png" border=0 width="23" height="23" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000CC" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="id34_m.htm#ceiling_fan" TARGET="TRLX_Middle" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Ceiling fans</B></A></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" width="100%" BGCOLOR="#000000" TEXT="#F7F7FF" background="48e80803.jpg"> <div> <B> <A NAME="top"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><B><IMG SRC="6e4a8ad0.gif" border=0 width="168" height="173" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></FONT><B>                     Conservation for Residential </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Will conservation lower my initial cost as well as my </B></div> <div> <B>operating cost ?</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Conservation will help determine the BTU requirement, (unit sizing),  to heat & cool your home, your operation cost, and your comfort but those conservations recommend must have a reasonable payback time (cost effectiveness). </B></div> <div> <I><B>Those who have attempted to sell  or make installations of air conditioning & / or heating equipment without proper knowledge have been responsible for poor operating results and unsatisfactory  experiences by the home owners.</B></I></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000066" FACE="Arial" ><I><B>"A lot of times your </B></I></FONT><I><B>l</B></I><I><B><U>ocal </U></B></I><B><U>utility company</U></B><I><B> will provide </B></I><I><B><U>free of charge</U></B></I><I><B><U> </U></B></I><I><B>a conservation inspection and </B></I><I><B>t</B></I><I><B>heir participation in paying</B></I><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000066" FACE="Arial" ><I><B> for some of the conservation improvements and inspections. Call your local utilities and see if they have these programs?"</B></I></FONT></div> <div> <I><B>Sometimes your local & state agriculture department-conservation department can supply you with good information in the conservation area. Call them too.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>When your utility bill is received the total amount is very important since that's what is due but the total consumption needs to be looked at as well. The consumption used may have increased or it may have been reduced. Then the cost of your fuel be it natural gas, propane, electric or what ever it is should be determined for each unit, kWh, gallon, etc. This can tell you if your cost for fuel has been increased or decreased. It seems to be common that only the total cost of the bill is used & that's not the entire story. </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>A quick method to see what your fuel per unit cost may be is to take the total cost of your bill and divide by the consumption. Now that has taxes & maybe other charges included but it should be a good method for determining your unit cost. That should help you in determining if the utility company has increased or decreased their per unit cost. Also if your bill seems higher see if your consumption has gone up & your per unit cost increased.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>New or new construction homes have codes that must be met therefore the consveration of these homes should be OK. If you are not sure about your home's conservation usually the local building department can supply you with this information.  </B></div> <div> <B>This conservation will be addressed to older existing homes.</B></div> <div> <B><U>The conservation </U></B><B>of your home pertains to it's "envelope". It's insulation, air infiltration & those things that can affect the winter or summer BTU's required in the home and that will be cost effective, (get your money back). </B></div> <div> <B><U>Unit sizing</U></B><B> is "one" big item that helps in </B><B>your comfort </B><B>and that's what you as the customer really want. </B><B>In fact that's what you are purchasing isn't it "Your Comfort"?</B><B> It's up to the installing contractor to provide those things. </B></div> <div> <B><U>Air conditioning unit </U></B><B><U>Efficiency's</U></B><B> are known as SEER's (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) & older units were rated as EER, (Energy Efficiency Ratio which was a 1 hour rating instead of a seasonal performance rating.</B></div> <div> <B> </B><B><U>Heating is HSPF or COP,</U></B><B> (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor or Coefficient of Performance) & these determinations or ratings are in a book called ARI (American Refrigeration Institute). All equipment will have specification data from the manufacturer that supports their performance be it cooling or heating.  (also see other pages of this site for in depth explanations)</B></div> <div> <B><U>Higher efficiencies</U></B><B><U> </U></B><B>whether they are air conditioners, heaters, appliances, water heaters or light bulbs </B><B>always </B><B><U>cost more money</U></B><B><U> </U></B><B>but they may save in the annual operating expenses (cost effective) & that is why they should be carefully looked at before your selection. Annual operation cost of your proposed equipment should be a part of the estimate for your decision. </B></div> <div> <B><U>The initial installation cost </U></B><B>is not necessarily the cheapest in the long run. Annually & hourly cost of operation of your appliances, air conditioner & heater will play a big part of your overall cost and that's where conservation comes in.</B></div> <div> <B>Hours per year at various temperatures are available for your area & are also located in the Manual J. You need this information in the selection of your equipment to see what unit will be the cheapest in the long run </B><B>( initial installation cost + annual operation cost + repair & maintenance cost )</B><B>. </B></div> <div> <B>The "bin method" is an accurate method for calculation of operation cost, seasonal or hourly.   ( see an example at the MENU, Questions-Answers-Tips, then select operating cost ).</B></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="attic__above_ceiling__"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>  Attic, (above ceiling), </B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="1" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="552" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="COLS" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF HEIGHT= 152 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="39cf27c0.png" border=0 width="242" height="124" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="39de7910.png" border=0 width="231" height="145" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="271"><div> Batt insulation in attic</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="264"><div> Knee wall</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B>The ceiling, (attic area), can have insulation added to bring it up to codes or requirement and that's providing one can get to it. Each area will have their own requirement depending on their weather. Your local Building Department or you insulation company can provide this information. Insulation has been in the range of R 19 to R 38 ( R=Resistance &  the greater the number the more resistance and insulation). The R value recommended </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><I><B>will depend on your area.</B></I></FONT><B> Insulation is purchased by the "R" value and </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>stay away from inch thickness only.</B></FONT><B> The inch thickness can be puffed up to give you more inch thickness but the "R" value may not be what it should be. One state had some companies doing this but attics were checked and those companies no longer do this practice. </B></div> <div> <B>Attic insulation may very well be cost effective & result in a good pay back. An insulation contractor or air conditioning contractor should be able to provide you this information. </B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="540" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#000000" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFCC > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 202 WIDTH="528"><div> <I><B>Insufficient insulation ( conservation for that matter ) will result in:</B></I></div> <div> <B>1. a larger air conditioning & or heating system</B><I><B> meaning your initial cost of purchase will be more . </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>2. certainly </B></I><B>higher utility consumption</B><I><B>, (higher bills) to cool or heat your home and even ........</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>3. your </B></I><B>personal comfort</B><I><B> will be in jeopardy. </B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Too small or too large of a system could be disastrous with your comfort.</B></I></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B>Insulation can be from loose fill to batt. The above picture represents a batt type of insulation. Loose fill is a blown type of insulation. Insulation will inhibit the loss or gain of heat which will affect your utility consumption. To install "Batt" insulation you will have a greater cost vs blown and both are rated with the "R" value. Batt insulation could have a moisture / vapor seal where blown does not. Depending on your area, your pocket book, and working space in the attic will affect your decision. The insulation or the air conditioning contractor should be able to tell you.</B></div> <div> <I><B>Summer attics may get pretty hot but insulation that has correctly been installed according to Design temperature, has not been figured for 125 degrees or hotter.  </B></I></div> <div> <B>Ex: One particular area a study of attic temperatures was done and they found those attics got to 125 degree. That would mean that the insulation for 95 degrees was inefficient or the attic may need venting. </B></div> <div> <B>The cooling load calculation, </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#CC0066" FACE="Arial" ><B>(Design temperature for the area)</B></FONT><B>, was on 95 degrees outside with 75 degrees inside, </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#CC0066" FACE="Arial" ><B>(that also means an attic temperature of 95 degrees)</B></FONT><B>. The Btu's per square foot with R19, (insulation required for one area),  would be 1.6 but for 125 degrees it would be in excess of 2.4. A 50% increase in the penetration of heat through the ceiling that was not calculated. Conservation measures if not taken could have your comfort in jeopardy.</B></div> <div> <B>For a 1500 square foot house that would be 2400 Btu's for 95 degree attic and a 125 degree attic would be 3600 Btu's </B></div> <div> <I><B>That same 1500 sq. ft home with no insulation would require 26,250 BTU's for the ceiling only.  Certainly a big difference comparing with and without insulation. What that means to the customer is without the proper insulation it could take a larger heating & cooling system, (comfort could very well be in jeopardy), certainly way higher utility consumption which is higher bills. </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>Where & if you can & it's cost effective please install insulation and those conservation items.</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>The insulation or the lack of insulation will affect cooling as well as heating. Attic insulation has always been cost effective. With it you can save money in your fuel bill and your initial installation cost ( smaller unit & materials), without it or insufficient insulation then the utility company will receive more fuel consumption and higher fuel cost to you (your utility bill) and your installation cost will be more, (larger unit & materials).</B></I></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="wall_insulation"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>  Wall insulation</B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="565" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="COLS" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFBF0 HEIGHT= 219 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="37ffad50.png" border=0 width="250" height="213" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="38115d00.jpg" border=0 width="277" height="208" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="269"><div> Wall unfinished</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="277"><div> Wall not insulated yet</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B>Existing walls should be insulated & will be in most case's frame, brick, concrete block,  but certainly not limited to. Existing walls are probably not cost effective in adding insulation. Not unless there is remodeling & the walls can be easily accessed. Otherwise they are left alone.</B></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="windows_"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>  Windows </B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="568" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="COLS" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF HEIGHT= 226 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3a9bcb90.png" border=0 width="188" height="185" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3aa529d0.png" border=0 width="338" height="157" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> Weather stripping window</div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="353"><div> Single, Double, & Triple Pane</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B>Windows can be a source of air infiltration and heat loss gain. Windows come in many types from  single pane up to triple pane. Windows that don't fit well could allow leakage especially in awning or jalousie. The frame around the window or glass may need caulking & / or weather stripping.</B></div> <div> <B> Windows usually can be adjusted, caulked, and weather stripped. Replacing existing windows or glass may not be cost effective. Your air conditioning or glass contractor should be able to give you an estimate and if it is cost effective. </B></div> <div> <B>I had a discussion with a friend who was advised by another party to replace his windows from single pane to double pane. I am retired and no longer in the business but things need to be done right. </B></div> <div> <B>I asked him several questions, (how was the savings determined,  would it be a reasonable payback and when is this savings to occur?), but he could not answer them and unfortunately the unprofessional may not know and just supply the wrong information. </B></div> <div> <I><B>What one should start with is the Manual "J" calculations on the home in it's area, cooling BTU's & heating BTU's. Then rerun the calculations with the window changes & see now what would be required - Total cooling & total heating. By taking the hours a year, (Manual "J" has this information),  that can be calculated to annual BTU's for cooling & heating without changes & with changes. That will tell you the BTU difference of the two & be on the way to see if it is cost effective to make those changes. The fuel that will deliver these BTU's and fuel cost used will help in determining if you make those changes. (Bin Method will help & make the process simple)</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>Usually in cold climates the change maybe cost effective but not in tropical type climates.</B></I></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="floors"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>  Floors</B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="1" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="569" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 165 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3abc59f0.png" border=0 width="197" height="159" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF WIDTH="357"><div> <B>In unheated crawl spaces the floor and perimeter should be insulated. A vapor barrier should be placed facing the heated area (up). A second vapor barrier should cover the ground. The area should be provided with cross ventilation in accordance with FHA standards.</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="doors"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>Doors</B></div> <div> <B>Doors are a big source of air infiltration. Check the weatherstripping around your doors for air leakage and the doors threshold (bottom). Check the doors to see if they fit properly. All doors should open & close with a slight resistance but with no binding or large gaps. If the door is out of balance, it must be adjusted before weatherstripping. Any door located between a heated/cooling & unheated/uncooling space requires weatherstripping, including entrance doors, garage doors, attic access doors, and doors to unconditioned basements.</B></div> <div> <B>Sliding glass doors should be weatherstripped the same as a glider window, using metal weatherstripping or tubular gasket</B></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="electric_wall_outlets"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>  Electric wall outlets</B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="1" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="579" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 186 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3a3bbb40.png" border=0 width="187" height="180" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF WIDTH="375"><div> <B>Remove a light cover and probe along the edge of the box to determine if there is any existing wall insulation and the amount. </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0033" FACE="Arial" ><B>BECAREFUL of the live voltage wires </B></FONT><B>so they don't "shock" you.  You can also use the lit candle or match flame to see if there is air leakage.</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="a_method_for_checking_leaks_or"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>A method for checking leaks or infiltration</B></div> <div> <B><IMG SRC="3b6c69e0.png" border=0 width="198" height="158" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="4" VSPACE="0"></B><B>A method to check for air leaks is a candle or a match but </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#CC3300" FACE="Arial" ><B>please be careful and don't put something on fire</B></FONT></div> <div> <B>Test to determine the need for weatherstripping are:</B></div> <div> <B>1.) Feeling for air leakage on a cold, windy day by placing a hand along cracks.</B></div> <div> <B>2.) Holding paper next to cracks to check for fluttering.</B></div> <div> <B>3.) Using a lighted candle to move along these cracks.</B></div> <div> <B>4.) Using a flashlight to shine along cracks with someone outside checking for light penetration.</B></div> <div> <B>5.) Using forced air (such as from a hair dryer) in combination with #2 or #3 above. </B></div> <div> <B>If one of these simple test shows penetration, weatherstripping should be added to the troubled area.</B></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="venting_the_attic"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B>Venting the attic</B></div> <div> <B>Roof vents</B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="621" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="COLS" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF HEIGHT= 210 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="39bba9d0.png" border=0 width="186" height="157" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3969fb40.png" border=0 width="159" height="180" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3a780ae0.jpg" border=0 width="128" height="174" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="195"><div> Turbo vent</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> Electric or Solar powered vent</div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="179"><div> Goose neck jack</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B>Vents for attics are primarily used to exhaust hot attic air. If they are properly installed and located, (exhaust & intake), they will lower the temperature to the outside temperature, (they are not conditioning the air). If the correct insulation (R-Value) has or will be installed & the attic air can get to "Design temperature" then the BTU's penetrating the ceiling are in line with the "Load Calculation" ( see unit sizing on this website).</B></div> <div> <B>When attic temperatures exceed the "Design temperatures" then you will get more BTU's through the ceiling than was figured for, thus your comfort may be in question?</B></div> <div> <B>Attic air can be vented by using Turbines, gooseneck jacks, ridge vents (</B><I> ridge vents not shown but are for new contructed homes and located at the peak of the r</I><I>oo</I>f<B> ), and Solar Powered roof or gable vents (Solar site </B><A HREF="http://www.solatube.com/"; Target="_blank" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.solatube.com/"; Target="_bla"><B>click here</B></A><B>)</B><B>, and electric powered vent fans. For exhaust in the attic you will need vents, grilles, or louvers for incoming air, (outside air), to at least match the fans exhaust capacity. Electric powered vents are a trade off. The energy used by power vents, (electrical motor driven), to exhaust may equal the energy to be exhausted. With "electric powered fans" you may have not gained a lot. </B></div> <div> <B>During cold weather the exhaust may need to be covered as you would like to keep as much heat as you can in the attic.  Turbovents, Ridge vents, & Goose Jacks use the ventura affect (chimney effect). That simply means that hot air will rise & if it has a way of exhausting then it will do so. Vent locations and quantity's are very important.</B></div> <div> <I>"Air flow due to wind around and over a building creates regions in which the static pressure changes. Bernoulli's principal states that where the velocity of a fluid is high the pressure is low, & where the velocity of a fluid is low the pressure is high. Air is a fluid. A wind blowing over a roof creates a low pressure area over the roof, while the atmospheric pressure inside the attic where the wind is not blowing is higher. "</I></div> <div> <I>"When wind hits a building it slows down and builds up pressure. When it goes over the roof and around sides of the building it speeds up and pressure is reduced. As a result there are areas inside the attic where the air is nearly still and the pressure is high, areas adjacent to the windward walls where the air speed has been reduced and the pressure is moderately high and areas over the roof ridge where air speed is accelerated and the pressure is low. These pressure differences will tend to seek equalization. Air will move from areas of high pressure to areas of lower pressure ( assuming there is a passageway for the air). In order for air to escape from an enclosed space passageways for both exhaust and intake are necessary. In other words cross ventilation is a must. "</I></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Stack Effect</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>A given mass of warm air takes up more space ( volume ) than an equal mass of colder air. Less dense warm air tends to rise as colder more dense air is pulled toward the earth by gravity. </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>If ventilators are installed on the roof at or near the highest point or ridge, warmer air is allowed to escape through these vents. In this way warm air is literally pushed out of the attic.</B></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="#top" TITLE="Conservation for Residential"><B>Top of Page</B></A></div> <div> <B> <A NAME="ceiling_fan"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="1" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="195" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP BGCOLOR=#FFFFFF HEIGHT= 64 WIDTH="185"><div> <IMG SRC="37c4c240.gif" border=0 width="76" height="36" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="185"><div> Ceiling fan</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B>Ceiling fan for air circulation</B></div> <div> <B>A study reflected that they have a cooling affect of 8 degrees. That should keep the air conditioner from running some & lower the utility consumption.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>About those fans in your home, (living area), whole house fans, ceiling or paddle fans, and any other type of fan. These fans do not lower or add humidity or temperature's. The cooling effect you may feel is the evaporation from your body. Depending on your climate or humidity level in your region depends on the fan to be used but that's if it will do the job you want it to. Some utility companies will offer rebates to install these fans but always ask, "What will my total cost be?", "Will my comfort be there",  "Will this help in reducing my utility bills/consumption and how?",  and "What will my payback be for this investment?" </B></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B>Cost Justification </B></div> <div> "<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>The primary goal</B></FONT><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000BF" FACE="Arial" > </FONT>of a homeowner in "weatherizing" a home should be to <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>increase the thermal resistance</B></FONT> (R value) of the building envelope. Ideally, walls, doors, windows, floors, and ceilings should have the highest possible R values."</div> <div> In reality, however, achievement of the highest possible R rating in every component is not necessarily a good investment. Some retrofit improvements may be expensive and even though energy is saved, <B>the potential savings are sometimes insufficient to warrant the investment.</B></div> <div> As insulation is added, thermal efficiency is increased. However with each subsequent addition of insulation the effect upon energy savings is diminished.</div> <div> For example, the conductive heat loss through a home section rated at R-1 will be one BTU per hour per square foot per degree of temperature difference. By increasing the R value by 19 to a total of 20 the heat loss is cut to just 0.05 BTU per hour per square foot per degree of temperature difference. By adding R-19 to this section, 95% of the heat previously lost through this section is now being saved, certainly a dramatic improvement.</div> <div> When installing additional insulation the results are less exciting. Another R-19 would bring the total R value to 39. Heat loss through this section would be 0.026 BTU per hour per square foot per degree of temperature difference. Of the heat lost by the original R-1 building section, 97.4% will be saved after the second addition. </div> <div> In both cases R-19 insulation additions are made. Yet the first addition results in a 95% heat loss savings while the second addition only adds another 2.4% to the total percentage saved by insulation.</div> <div> Another approach to this law of diminishing returns is this: Whenever the R value is doubled, heat loss is cut in half. Starting at R-1, doubling requires an addition of R-1. As doubling takes place - 2-4-8-16-64.... doubling becomes more difficult. </div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> Do not select your ac contractor on price only !</div> <div> <A HREF="id36.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="MENU"><IMG SRC="73080200.jpg" border=0 width="128" height="32" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></A></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>